Columbia River Gorge

Still at Mountain Home, ID

NOTE: Don't be alarmed, your eyes didn't go negative on you. I changed the template for the blog last night when the previous post appeared to have no text in it. I tried to type my post in the little word processor on my XO and it entered some HTML commands that changed all the text in the blog to black (I think) which does not show up well on a black background. So until I figure it all out I stick with the current format.

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The first view of the Gorge was some distance after I left the Portland area, I'd elected to take the Rt. 30 by-pass which took me through the more industrial fringes of Portland, my mistaken thought was that I'd be right close to the river. I wasn't until I joined again with I84 that the cliffs of the gorge came into view. As posted earlier, it had been a long and arduous afternoon. The sun was setting behind me and the cliffs, that appeared to be rather close together on either side of the river, were lit perfectly to emulate a lithograph I recalled of Lewis and Clark surveying their course from a promontory somewhere. I choose to believe that they were overlooking the Columbia River Gorge nearing the westward end of their epic journey.

The light and the hills appeared sort of gold and I had another of my WOW moments (I didn't try to stop for a photo this time). I84 closely follows the Columbia so the river is most always in view. It's broad and not very fast moving. The opposite (northern) shores are visible across the river and the southern cliffs are fairly close to the highway to the right although these are probably newly blasted to make room for the four lane. Being IN the gorge this way is impressive however, the real eye opener occurs when the rider takes the 'old road' cutoffs that are offered.

The original national highway through the gorge is US Rt. 30, known in Ohio and elsewhere as the Lincoln Highway. It's remnants wind not only with the river but with the terrain. Sometimes at the river level, sometimes high above. At points it hugs a more natural southern wall and it's at these points that it reveals spectacular waterfalls. In one 7 mile section of the old road, lined with old fashioned decorative concrete bidge abutments and white painted wooden guard rails, are three spectacular water falls. Each is close enough to be viewed from the road. There are parking spot near each fall and in a couple of cases gift shops and restrooms built of local stone in the charming slate roofed WPA style seen in state and national parks across the nation.

I can't recall the names of two of the falls, although one was nicknamed 'Bridal Veil', one was 'Horse Tail' and one was the third highest fall in the US. This seven mile ride was particularly enjoyable as the light was fading and the day was cooling from the 90's suffered earlier on I5.

Who could resist a side trip over the 'Bridge of the Gods'? I couldn't even though there was a toll. The bridge takes it's name from a Native American legend that tells of a natural bridge that the Great Spirit created in this site and set a woman to guard. She somehow failed in duty and the bridge was destroyed in a battle between waring tribes. In shame she went into solitary retreat and became Mt. St. Helens (not her real name) 90 miles to the north.

The current bridge while not as old as the legendary Native bridge is pretty old. It was originally built before the Bonneville Dam was finished in 1938 and has to be raised about 90 feet to clear the rising water behind the dam. There is a dollar charge for cars, to my surprise I got 50 cents change when I offer my buck for the bike.

The other side is, of course Washington again. I made my way as dark was falling, to Stevenson, WA , a place I'd randomly picked on MapQuest to spend the night. As luck would have the town was celebrating its annual Free Fair and homecoming and this happened to be the one hundredth such event. Quite a picturesque little place, a former logging town now dependant on tourism. As the free fair and the main part of town was fading in the mirrors and as Rt. 14's 2 lanes were growing darker ahead the glorious red and white 'Econo Lodge' sign popped into view. I got one of the last 2 remaining rooms (the Jacuzzi Suite), a AAA discount, advice on how to find the local Subway, a shower, and blessed cool sleep.

More on the Gorge next time.