Queen of The Keweenaw

In a previous post I may have referred to Phoebe as the  unofficial mayor of Copper Harbor... in retrospect I may have understated her status in the North Country.  Phoebe's influence extends as far south on the peninsula as Calumet where she ruled over the elementary school of 800 students.  As a long time school administrator she has a good handle on what constitutes "best  practices" in teaching and learning and is not shy about encouraging incorporating these practices in classrooms. As in most places and positions many folks believe that the current practices are just fine and that what worked for mom and dad will do OK for the kids.  She has a scrapbook of articles clipped from the local paper attesting to the controversies strirred up by this southerner who dared to challenge the status quo.  She had many supporters in teachers and parents who could see beyond the past and had high hopes for kids of the 21st century but in the end the Queen abdicated that portion of her realm to the citizens who view the future in their rear view mirrors.

Currently she not so much rules but presides over the social and promotional aspects of the upper Keweenaw Peninsula.   In the day and a half Tomto and I spent with Phoebe and her friend Sue we were on a whirlwind tour of area  happenings, restaurants, and bars.  We were regaled with tales of political intrigue, local characters, history and gossip.  One of our first stops was at the Eagle Harbor "Junk Day" where even the mundane discarding of accumulated castoffs is an opportunity to meet and greet the subjects  (or in the case of a township official who has offended the Queen) to ignore the subject.  That tripped to the Queens outpost of Oleanna, her little cabin in the wood on Lake Medora where she is currently doing battle with newcomers who are attempting to bring inside plumbing, electricity, and street lights to  what is, and always should be an area of rustic retreats.

After a  beer and a climb down to the lake to start the gasoline powered pump to refill the elevated water tank we were off the the Delaware Copper Mine that is operated by a subject who runs the closed mine as a tourist attraction.   Back on US 41 we stop by the Keweenaw Mountain Lodge, a miniature Yellowstone Lodge look-alike ,  for another beer and a chat with a couple of OSU faculty members who spend their summers golfing and goofing around Copper Harbor.

Dinner a the Mariner where Phoebe is 5 minutes getting to the best table in the house while she chats with several loyal subjects.  More beer.  After dinner we visit Zik's Bar where the Queen once presided as  the bartender.  At Zik's we meet more locals including Brian one of only 5 people in the world who is qualified to repair Fresnel lenses used in light houses.  He just got back from working on the Bald Head light in NC where, on an island of only golf cart transportation, his cart was towed because it was too shabby.

  Ross told of how his grandparents played host to the crew of a grounded freighter while they waited for the lake to freeze so the cargo of hundreds of 1927 Chryslers could be offloaded and driven across the ice.  They were paid $18 for their trouble.

There are only 72 full time residents of Copper Harbor but apparently thousands of stories. After a frothy nightcap we retire to the Land of Make Believe, the Doll House and a good nights rest.

Looks like it will take another post to finish Copper Harbor.