Queen of The Keweenaw

In a previous post I may have referred to Phoebe as the  unofficial mayor of Copper Harbor... in retrospect I may have understated her status in the North Country.  Phoebe's influence extends as far south on the peninsula as Calumet where she ruled over the elementary school of 800 students.  As a long time school administrator she has a good handle on what constitutes "best  practices" in teaching and learning and is not shy about encouraging incorporating these practices in classrooms. As in most places and positions many folks believe that the current practices are just fine and that what worked for mom and dad will do OK for the kids.  She has a scrapbook of articles clipped from the local paper attesting to the controversies strirred up by this southerner who dared to challenge the status quo.  She had many supporters in teachers and parents who could see beyond the past and had high hopes for kids of the 21st century but in the end the Queen abdicated that portion of her realm to the citizens who view the future in their rear view mirrors.

Currently she not so much rules but presides over the social and promotional aspects of the upper Keweenaw Peninsula.   In the day and a half Tomto and I spent with Phoebe and her friend Sue we were on a whirlwind tour of area  happenings, restaurants, and bars.  We were regaled with tales of political intrigue, local characters, history and gossip.  One of our first stops was at the Eagle Harbor "Junk Day" where even the mundane discarding of accumulated castoffs is an opportunity to meet and greet the subjects  (or in the case of a township official who has offended the Queen) to ignore the subject.  That tripped to the Queens outpost of Oleanna, her little cabin in the wood on Lake Medora where she is currently doing battle with newcomers who are attempting to bring inside plumbing, electricity, and street lights to  what is, and always should be an area of rustic retreats.

After a  beer and a climb down to the lake to start the gasoline powered pump to refill the elevated water tank we were off the the Delaware Copper Mine that is operated by a subject who runs the closed mine as a tourist attraction.   Back on US 41 we stop by the Keweenaw Mountain Lodge, a miniature Yellowstone Lodge look-alike ,  for another beer and a chat with a couple of OSU faculty members who spend their summers golfing and goofing around Copper Harbor.

Dinner a the Mariner where Phoebe is 5 minutes getting to the best table in the house while she chats with several loyal subjects.  More beer.  After dinner we visit Zik's Bar where the Queen once presided as  the bartender.  At Zik's we meet more locals including Brian one of only 5 people in the world who is qualified to repair Fresnel lenses used in light houses.  He just got back from working on the Bald Head light in NC where, on an island of only golf cart transportation, his cart was towed because it was too shabby.

  Ross told of how his grandparents played host to the crew of a grounded freighter while they waited for the lake to freeze so the cargo of hundreds of 1927 Chryslers could be offloaded and driven across the ice.  They were paid $18 for their trouble.

There are only 72 full time residents of Copper Harbor but apparently thousands of stories. After a frothy nightcap we retire to the Land of Make Believe, the Doll House and a good nights rest.

Looks like it will take another post to finish Copper Harbor.

Catching up... Copper Harbor & Keweenaw

Still catching up.  Dateline Iron River, WI Wednesday July 21.

Tomto & I left Ann & Fred's around 10 on Sunday.  Stopped as mentioned before at Kavela's for a pasty and rode on to Copper Harbor.  US 41 which begins life at the  tip of the Keweenaw and eventually mkes its way to Florida where it is most famous for its slow-driving snow birds leads us directly to  the only flashing yessow traffic light in Keweenw county.  Left turn at the light, a hundred yards on the left: The Land of Make Believe.

But the road to get there, young US 41!  Pretty uneventful for the first 30 or so miles.  Tiny villages that appear to be "rode hard and put away wet", lots of old cars and abandoned buildings, here and there evidence of the once flourishing copper mining that loaned its temporary glitter to the peninsula.  The largest town, Calumet, has a nice old 19th century  high school right on 41, it's  now renovated and integrated with more modern mile and elementary schools.  The whole connected complex is joined to a wood burning, smoke stacked plant that provides heat for all the buildings.  Down town Calumet has recent been redone with the help of federal grants... restored store fronts, new/old brick streets, standardized 'olde' signage.   some charm but with a sense of resignation to the inevitable: Almost a Ghost Town.

Ah but the last ten or 15 miles!  My most vivid memories of my last visit to Copper Harbor are of that road.  It's a tunnel of trees and when the sun is shining (and it was each time we traversed that section) the road is dappled with lacy shadow and light that is mesmerizing.  It's the highway itself that is the view, not vistas or grand buildings (there virtually none), only a brief glimpse of Lake Medora's shore and a short run along the stone fences of the Keweenaw Mountain Lodge golf course.  Tomto and I have ridden the infamous "Tail of the Dragon" in North Carolina...300+ turn in 11 miles or something like that.  Sports car drivers and go-fast bikers come from all over to ride that road which is littered with car and bike parts of over-enthusiastic drivers.  The approach to Copper Harbor, while not quite as twisty is more beautiful and certainly more serene than the Dragon.  Still, the thrill of negotiating the gentle curves and dips gives one a sense of being one with the machine.  All-in-all a more zen-like and satisfying experience for old guys.

More to follow about our visit in the Land of Make Believe and our hosts Phoebe and Sue.

Door County to Copper Harbor and Beyond

Coming to you from beautiful Iron River, WI this post will be brief because we've been on the road today and suffered through rain and heat.  Plus I'm typing on the tiny XO keyboard that makes me crazy.  Tomto and Chemo had a great stay in Marquette with Ann and Fred... got to see all their toys and collections, even sailed on the 40+ year old Dutch sail boat in Marquette Harbor.  In addition to their vehicle collection (power, sail boats; Cesnna 172, Buel and Ural Motorcycles fred is restoring a classic Triumph MC and a rare Honda trials bike.  Ann's  collection of Native American artifacts would send our friend Jack's had spinning... everything from porkupine quill baskets to some really nice kachina dolls.

Our overnight stay included grilled fresh Lake Superior whitfish, homemade blueberry pie, a tour of the city and Northern Michigan campus as well as great conversation and accomodations.  It was great to see Ann and Fred again, especially in their home environment.
Sunday it was on to Copper Harbor with aa brief stop in Hancock for a past at Kevala's Cafe.

More to follow.